Sneezing? Coughing? Your kitty may need more than chicken soup!

Most feline upper respiratory infections are caused by viruses, but some cats develop secondary bacterial infections. Signs of upper respiratory disease can also be linked to other serious problems, like allergies, dental disease, cancer or the presence of a foreign object in the nose or the back of the mouth.

What causes feline upper respiratory infections?

Approximately 90% of all upper respiratory infections in cats are caused by two common viruses: feline herpesvirus-1 and feline calicivirus. Feline herpesvirus is related to the virus that causes cold sores and chicken pox in people; however, people cannot get sick from the feline virus. Upper respiratory infections in cats can also be caused by fungi or bacteria. It is common for cats to be “co-infected” — infected with more than one agent (e.g., a virus and a bacteria) at the same time — which can make treatment and recovery longer and more difficult.

How are these diseases spread?

Feline upper respiratory infections are spread the same way as the common cold: a healthy cat comes in contact with an object that has been used by an infected cat — for example, a shared food bowl or toy. Disinfecting shared items on a regular basis can help cut down on the transmission risk. Feline calicivirus can also be spread when a healthy cat uses the same litter box as an infected cat. And, just like the common cold, your hands can play a role in spreading these viruses. Therefore, if you have or touch a sick cat, wash your hands before touching another cat! Also, one of the major ways these viruses are spread — like human respiratory pathogens — is through sneezing or coughing, aerosolizing the virus into droplets.
Even after they are no longer sick, many cats that have been infected with feline herpesvirus and calicivirus can transmit these viruses to other cats. Therefore, seek professional veterinary advice before introducing a new cat with an unknown vaccination history into your house or before placing your cat in an unfamiliar setting with other cats, such as a boarding facility.

What should I do if my cat is already sick?

Diagnosing the exact cause of an upper respiratory infection can be difficult because many cats are co-infected. When you bring your cat in to the veterinary office, it helps if you can remember what vaccinations your cat has had, when your cat might have been exposed to an infected cat, and when your cat began to show signs of being sick.
As in people, very few drugs can control viral infections, so treatment typically consists mostly of keeping your cat warm, comfortable, and eating and drinking properly. Many sick cats lose their appetite because nasal congestion affects their sense of smell; therefore, these cats may need to be tempted with baby food or another delicious treat. Discharge from the nose and eyes should be gently cleared away if the cat will allow it, and any lesions in the mouth or eyes should be treated. You may be given a prescription for a broad-spectrum antibiotic to help combat any secondary bacterial infections. Dehydration can be a problem in seriously

How can I keep my cat healthy?

Cats that are kept indoors are at a lower risk of contracting upper respiratory diseases. Cats that are allowed outside; have recently been in a shelter, boarding facility or cattery; or live in a multicat household are at higher risk of contracting these diseases. Kittens, because of their immature immune systems, are also at higher risk.
Vaccines are available to help prevent or reduce the severity of the most common infections. Many vaccines may not be 100% effective in preventing a disease, but they do help limit how sick your cat becomes if it is infected. See the box about the current guidelines regarding which vaccinations cats should get and how often.
 ill cats, so fluid therapy may be called for in some cases.

Nail Trims Do Not Have to Be “Torture” for Dogs or You

Nail trimming can be a dreaded task that many dog owners choose to defer to a professional. Some dogs are taken to a groomer, and some have their nails trimmed once or twice a year during their annual or biannual veterinary examinations. If a clinic does not have a groomer on staff, a veterinary technician often trims nails with the help of an assistant.

The temperaments of patients during nail trims can range from “polite” dogs that tolerate or even enjoy the procedure to “Cujos” that would just as soon eat you as let you touch their feet. The upside to trimming the nails of Cujos is that their temperament often causes them to produce highly desired laboratory samples, such as feces and urine. However, nail trims should not be psychological “torture” for patients or veterinary staff. In addition, nail trims should not be painful for patients unless there is an underlying pathology.

Our goal is for patients to think that only “wonderful things” happen at our animal hospital. We encourage owners especially with puppies to start regular touching or playing with their pets’ feet.  We also encourage clients to make “footwork” sessions fun, to carefully choose the timing of sessions, and to reward good behavior with lots of attention, play, and/or treats.

So what should you do with a growling, anal-gland wielding “land shark” ironically named Princess or Sweetie? The answer is desensitization and counterconditioning. These simple techniques involve gradually introducing a pet to the feared stimulus (e.g., nail trimmers) in the presence of a valued reward (e.g., toys, treats, attention). When this method is used, the “evil” nail trimmer becomes a predictor of something good. However, timing is important; the pet must learn that the nail trimmer predicts something “good,” not that the “good thing” predicts the nail trimmer.

Nail trims can be performed by almost anyone. Desensitization and counterconditioning are simple techniques that can be used to help patients overcome their fear of nail trimming. With some time and effort, clients can gain the confidence required to trim their pets’ nails on their own. If you do happen to cut the "Quick" or also known as the blood vessel within the nail, you can always try some cornstartch to apply to it, to control the bleeding.

Shown above the yellow line indicated where you should trim the nail.

5 common myths about veterinary anesthesia

Myth: Anesthesia complications are common.
Fact: Don't let horror stories prevent your pet from recieving necessary vet care. Complications do occur but are rare. Studies suggest that for normal healthy cats and dogs the risk of death is 1 in 2000. For animals with pre-existing disease that number increases to about 1 in 500. Here at AVH we have a well trained veterinary staff that take every precuation. We even have a Registered Vet Technician with a specialty in Anesthesia. We have appropriate monitors to help minimize these risks.



Lisa our RVT, VTS (Anesthesia) monitoring a patient while
Dr. Neilan performs a surgical procedure.

 Myth: Most complications occur during a procedure while my pet is asleep.
Fact: Almost half of anesthesia deaths occur after the delivery of anesthetic drugs during the recovery period. Ask the veterinarian of a rundown of how your pet will be cared for. Here at our hospital we actually have a designated recovery ward nurse dedicated to each patient in the recovery ward.

Myth: Most veterinarians provide a similiar level of anesthetic care.
Fact: Each veterinary clinic has a different way of doing things. Some may have boarded veterinary anesthesiologists while others rely on an in house team. If you have questions or concerns ask your veterinarian before your pet undergoes any anesthetic procedures.

Myth: The internet is the most reliable sorce for information about potential risks.
Fact: While some sites offer riliable information plenty can contain inconsistancies or flat out mislead you. So don't be fooled by misinformation which can spread quickly from website to website. Do your research, ask the veterinarian for the most accurate picture. This should help you get rid your mind of a few unfounded fears.

Myth: Certain anesthetic drugs could harm my pet.
Fact: In fact monitroing the pets condition (like anesthesia depth, blood oxygenation, respiration, blood pressure, body temperature and electrical activity of the heart) during a procedure is much more important than which drug protocol is used. Seldom is one drug better or worse than another since they all have benefits and risks. Certainly if the patient is compromised ( ie. liver or heart disease) then the selection of dugs that we are able to use,  decreases.

Keep your pet safe this Easter!

As Easter approaches, many of us look forward to the excitement of Easter festivities like Easter egg hunts, Easter baskets filled with chocolate bunnies and jelly beans, and parades. But the joys of Easter can mean danger for your pets. To keep your pet safe, you should be aware of some common Easter pet problems.

Easter Lillies (and others such as the day lily and the tiger lily). For many, the beautiful trumpet-shaped white flowers symbolize purity, virtue, innocence, hope and life -- the spiritual essence of Easter. Cat owners, however, need to be especially careful with these beautiful flowers because their leaves contain toxins that can cause severe kidney damage. So far, toxicity has not been reported in dogs.

Eating just one leaf of this toxic plant can result in severe poisoning and within a short time your cat will exhibit signs of toxicity.Minutes to hours after ingestion, your cat may stop eating and begin vomiting. As the toxins begin to affect the kidneys, your pet may become lethargic, and within five days, kidney failure will cause death.

If you suspect your cat has eaten part of a lily plant, it is important that you contact your veterinarian immediately. If treatment is started early, chances for recovery are good, but once the kidneys have been severely affected, your cat may not survive.

Obviously, the best prevention of lily toxicity is to keep the plants away from your kitty. If you bring Easter lilies into the house, keep them in a separate room where your nibbling cat cannot enter.

Plastic Easter Grass and Other Goodies. Like children, cats and dogs love to nibble on goodies in the Easter basket. Unfortunately, our curious pets enjoy everything in the basket, even the colorful plastic grass, toys and foil-wrappers on candies.

Take care to keep Easter baskets away from your dog and your cat. The plastic in Easter grass is non-digestible and can get caught in the intestines, leading to blockage and possible perforation. Cats love string-like objects and often play with the grass before eating it. Once ingested, the grass, as well as small plastic toys, can cause choking or become lodged in the stomach or intestines and create an obstruction.

Your pet may also ingest ribbons, bows, streamers and other decorative items – even ribbons and bows tied around their necks. Don't be tempted to decorate your puppy or kitty; they don't enjoy it and it may result in choking or strangulation. Keep these items away from your pet and throw candy wrappers in a covered trash can.

If you suspect that your pet has ingested something that may not pass through his intestinal tract, contact your veterinarian. Waiting until your dog or cat starts to vomit will make removal of the object more difficult and costly. Also, if you notice a sudden loss of appetite, vomiting, excessive drooling or abnormal bowel movements, consult with your veterinarian immediately.

Chocolate Toxicity. Did you know that chocolate can poison your pet? Chocolate is toxic to both cats and dogs, and other candies and wrappers can become lodged in the stomach or cause your pet to choke.

Chocolate has a high fat content and contains caffeine and theobromine, which stimulate the nervous system and can be toxic if taken in large amounts. Depending on the type of chocolate ingested and the amount eaten, various problems can occur.White chocolate has the least amount of stimulants and baking chocolate has the highest. Here is a list of the most common sources of chocolate and the amount leading to toxicity:

White Chocolate: Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 45 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested. Severe toxicity occurs when 90 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested. This means that a 20-pound dog would need to ingest at least 55 pounds of white chocolate to cause nervous system signs. A 10-pound cat would need to ingest 27 pounds. These high amounts mean that theobromine toxicity from white chocolate is highly unlikely.

Milk Chocolate: Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.7 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested. Severe signs occur when 2 ounces per pound of body weight is ingested. This means that a little less than one pound of milk chocolate can be toxic to the nervous system of a 20-pound dog. A 10-pound cat would need to ingest 1/2 pound.

Semi-Sweet Chocolate: Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 1/3 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested. Severe signs occur when 1 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested. This means that as little as 6 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate can be toxic to the nervous system of a 20-pound dog. A 10-pound cat would need to ingest 3 ounces.

Instant Cocoa: Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 1/3 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested. Severe signs occur when 1 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested. This means that as little as 6 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate can be toxic to the nervous system of a 20-pound dog. A 10-pound cat would need to ingest 3 ounces.

Baking Chocolate: Mild signs of toxicity can occur when 0.1 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested. Severe signs occur when 0.3 ounce per pound of body weight is ingested. Two small one-ounce squares of baking chocolate can be toxic to a 20-pound dog. A 10-pound cat would need to ingest 1 ounce of baking chocolate. This type of chocolate has the highest concentration of caffeine and theobromine and very little needs to be ingested before signs of illness become apparent.

Once toxic levels are eaten, you may notice restlessness, hyperactivity, muscle twitching, increased urination, and excessive panting. The high fat content in chocolate can also cause vomiting and diarrhea.

Make sure that chocolate is kept in a safe place. If you suspect your pet has eaten chocolate, consult your veterinarian immediately. Animals treated for chocolate toxicity generally recover and return to normal within 24 to 48 hours.

Spring is here, and so is thunderstorm season! Is your pet ready?

Thundershirt's are an excellent treatment for most types of dog anxiety and fear issues. For many anxieties, we recommend just putting on a Thundershirt and observing the results (No training!). You very well may see significant improvement for noise, crate, travel, barking and others with absolutely no training. For more complicated anxiety cases, we recommend using Thundershirt as part of a behavior modification program.
One thing is for certain, for a very large percentage of dogs, Thundershirt’s gentle, constant pressure has a terrific calming effect. This has obvious benefits for most types of anxiety. But Thundershirt is also a very useful tool for managing excitability or hyperactivity with strangers, on the leash, or in a training environment. Thundershirt’s calming effect helps a dog to focus (or refocus) her energies in a more constructive direction, allowing training to be more effective.

Frequently Asked Questions               

Why does Thundershirt work?

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Thundershirt’s patent-pending design is a pressure wrap that applies a gentle, constant pressure on a dog’s torso. A survey of Thundershirt users shows that over 80% of dogs show significant improvement in at least one anxiety symptom when using Thundershirt.
Using pressure to relieve anxiety has been a common practice for years. For example:

• dog trainers use pressure to address a variety of anxieties.
• Veterinarians use pressure to relax cattle and cats when they are administering vaccinations.
• Some autistic people use pressure to relieve their persistent anxiety.

Until now, there just hasn’t been a well-designed, inexpensive pressure wrap commonly used for canine anxiety.

What training is required for using Thundershirt for anxiety and fear issues?

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For many types of anxiety… none! Just put Thundershirt onto your dog and you will likely see results with the very first usage. However, for some dogs, it may take two to three usages to see results. For some more serious anxiety cases, such as severe separation anxiety, you should consult a good trainer for how to integrate Thundershirt into a training program.

Can I wash and dry Thundershirt? Remove hair from Velcro hooks?

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Thundershirt is made with durable, washable fabric. When necessary, Thundershirt may be washed in a regular cycle using regular laundry detergent and warm water. Hang to dry.

How long can I leave a Thundershirt on my dog?

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Thundershirt is designed to be safe to leave on your dog for extended periods of time when appropriate for the situation or issue that you are addressing.  Thundershirt is made out of light-weight, breathable fabric, so over-heating is very rarely an issue.  It is typically safe to leave a dog unsupervised while wearing a Thundershirt.

How do I put Thundershirt onto my dog?

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The Thundershirt is designed to be easy to put on your dog, even if she/he is already in a state of anxiety.

Is there any special sizing and fit considerations for male dogs?

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When fitting a Thundershirt on a male dog, the straps that go around the stomach area should not cover or push on the genitals or prepuce.  If the Thundershirt rubs against the genitals or prepuce, irritation may result.

What size is right for my dog?

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Size	Chest Size	Weight
XXS	9"-13.5"	< 12 lbs.
XS	13"-18"	10-18 lbs.
S	16"-23"	15-25 lbs.
M	18"-26"	20-50 lbs.
L	24"-32"	40-70 lbs.
XL	31"-40"	60-110 lbs.
XXL	38"-50"	> 110 lbs.

Measure “Chest Size” as illustrated by red arrow below

Thundershirt comes in seven different sizes… XXL, XL, L, M, S, XS, and XXS. See the table to find the right size for your dog. Like people, dogs come in many different shapes and sizes, so if your dog has unusual proportions, you may need to go up or down a size versus the “standard” measurements. But the Thundershirt is designed to be very adjustable to accommodate different dog shapes and still be easy to put on.

Is overheating a concern when using a Thundershirt?

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Except in extreme conditions (e.g. 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the sun), overheating is not typically a concern when using a Thundershirt. Dogs cool themselves primarily through their mouths and paws, and a Thundershirt is constructed of a thin, breathable fabric. The state of Florida is one of our biggest markets. But if you feel that overheating might be a problem for your particular circumstance, please monitor your dog for any signs of overheating such as heavy panting or tongue hanging out of the mouth. Remove the Thundershirt if you see any signs of overheating.

Thundershirt is designed to be safe to leave on your dog for extended periods of time when appropriate for the situation or issue that you are addressing.  Thundershirt is made out of light-weight, breathable fabric, so over-heating is very rarely an issue.  It is typically safe to leave a dog unsupervised while wearing a Thundershirt.

For many types of anxiety… none! Just put Thundershirt onto your dog and you will likely see results with the very first usage. However, for some dogs, it may take two to three usages to see results. For some more serious anxiety cases, such as severe separation anxiety, you should consult a good trainer for how to integrate Thundershirt into a training program.


Call us today if your are interested about Thundershirts for your pet!

Heartworm Season is Upon us....

Canine heartworm disease is a common condition in many regions of the world. It is caused by the filarial (threadlike) worm Dirofilaria immitis that lives in the pulmonary arteries (blood vessels leading from the heart to the lungs) in most infected dogs. The name "heartworm" is a bit misleading because only in very heavy infections do the worms actually reside in the heart itself.

Nonetheless, the presence of these worms causes strain to the heart and an intense reaction in the blood vessels, resulting in problems for the pooch as heartworm microfilaria (tiny larve)  is injected into the dog by infected mosquitoes.

The most important predisposing factor is failure to receive heartworm preventative medication. All dogs living in an area where heartworm disease exists are at risk, even if they live entirely indoors.

Transmission occurs when a mosquito bites an infected dog and ingests heartworm larvae (baby heartworms), which live in the bloodstream. When the insect bites another dog or cat, some of the larvae are injected under the skin. The larvae grow for 3 to 4 months and eventually make their way into the heart where they develop into adults, and the process is ready to repeat itself.

What To Watch For

Symptoms don't usually develop until damage has already occurred to the heart. Dogs can have a wide range of symptoms, with some dogs being completely asymptomatic (no symptoms at all). Symptoms usually occur because of heart failure. These include:

Coughing

Coughing up of blood (hemoptysis)

Heavy breathing

Unwillingness to exercise

Signs of right sided congestive heart failure, which include fluid distention of the belly, pulsation of the jugular veins in the neck when the dog is sitting or standing and heavy breathing.

Diagnosis
Here at AVH we use heartworm serology. This test checks for proteins in the bloodstream of the dog that are produced by the heartworms. These tests are very sensitive and accurate.

PreventionThe modern heartworm preventative medications are highly effective and, if religiously administered, should prevent heartworm infection. Look in our spring newsletter or call our office if you are unsure if you should test this year or next. All preventative medicine should be started June 1, 2011. Heartworm testing begins April 1st 2011.

Spring is here and so are the Porcupines!

Porcupines are quiet, amusing little creatures who simply want to be left alone.  They do not shoot or eject their quills but will swipe their tails swiftly and leave a bunch of needle like quills in whatever the tail happens to touch.  When threatened  tiny erector muscles in the skin will make the  hundreds of quills over the back "stand up" in defense.  Any dog, that dives in thinking an easy meal awaits makes a startling discovery!  If the eyes or throat are affected by the quills, the canine is in real trouble.  Left untreated, as happens in the wild, the quills will eventually create festering and oozing and eventually the quill may be rubbed or scratched out,sometimes it  just may be a long drawn out affair.

A quick trip with anesthesia to the veterinarian's office is the best solution for a quick and easy painless removal.  Porcupine quills do not have barbs at their ends, and have the possibilty of migrating through the dog's tissues if left in.  The points of the quills are extremely sharp and stiff and under the microscope actually appear as if they have scales or  shingles, not barbs, that point backward. Once imbedded into tissues they can be difficult to remove, especially the tiny ones that want to break before they are extracted. Antibiotics may be needed.

Bottom line the sooner the better to remove these needles! Call our office as soon as possible if your pet tangles with a porcupine!